Umi Hachikyo, Sapporo Main Branch: Worth Trying?
Image: Marina Wee
When it comes to exploring Japan through its cuisine, there’s something unforgettable about diving into a truly local dining experience—especially in Hokkaido, the seafood capital of the north. During our recent trip to Sapporo, we had the pleasure of dining at Umi Hachikyo’s Main Branch, tucked within the Miyako Building in Susukino. Known for its vibrant fisherman-style vibe and its spectacle of a dish—the overflowing salmon roe bowl (Tsukko Meshi)—this was more than just dinner. It was a theatrical, sensory celebration of Hokkaido’s seafood bounty.
Let me walk you through our visit—from the unique ambiance to the moment they yelled "Oisah!" and poured ikura like a waterfall.
First Impressions: A Fisherman’s Lodge in the City
Step through the doors of Umi Hachikyo, and you’re instantly immersed in a world that feels far from urban Sapporo. The decor mimics a traditional “banya”—a fisherman’s hut. With netting strung above your head, wooden crates stacked like a dockside depot, and weathered fishing gear lining the walls, the setting puts you right at the heart of a Hokkaido port town. It’s quirky, authentic, and cozy.
Image: Marina Wee
The staff, dressed in matching fisherman-style attire, are not only attentive but part of the experience themselves. Every dish served is met with warm hospitality, a touch of performance, and genuine pride in the region’s seafood.
The Main Event: The Overflowing Salmon Roe Bowl (Tsukko Meshi)
Let’s get right into the showstopper—Umi Hachikyo’s famous Tsukko Meshi.
As the staff arrived with a wooden bowl brimming with vibrant orange ikura (salmon roe) and a rice bowl in hand, we already knew something exciting was coming. With a big smile, they began the chant:
“OISSA! OISSA! OISSA!”
Scoop after scoop of ikura was generously piled high, cascading past the rim and onto the sides of the bowl until it literally overflowed—a dramatic and joy-filled ritual that had the entire restaurant pausing to watch.
Image: Marina Wee
📷 (This was the moment captured in one of our photos—watching that perfect dome of glossy ikura build up was mesmerizing. It made for one of the most satisfying food videos we’ve ever taken!)
Each bite of the salmon roe was cold, slightly briny, and incredibly fresh. The popping texture of the ikura contrasted perfectly with the warm, subtly seasoned rice beneath. There’s something indulgent and almost luxurious about eating this much salmon roe in one sitting—and yet, at Umi Hachikyo, it feels like tradition.
💡 Travel Tip: Order your camera early and hit record—you’ll definitely want to relive this moment later (and your friends will love it on Instagram!).
Grilled Mackerel and Tofu Salad: Perfect Supporting Acts
Image: Marina Wee
While the ikura bowl gets all the attention, don’t skip the grilled Atka mackerel (hokke) or the tofu salad—they balance the meal beautifully.
We ordered the mackerel, which came grilled to golden-brown perfection, its skin slightly charred and crisp, hiding soft, flaky white flesh beneath. A side of grated daikon radish and lemon offered that classic Japanese touch—simple yet thoughtfully paired to bring out the fish’s rich, savory taste.
Next, the tofu salad offered a much-needed refresh. Cold, silky tofu cubes sat atop a bed of crunchy greens, seaweed, and bonito flakes. The light garlic dressing added a zing that cut through the richness of our other dishes. It felt like a cool breeze between waves of seafood—and it was exactly what we needed to keep the meal from becoming too heavy.
Image: Marina Wee
📷 (The second photo we took shows this pairing—mackerel, tofu salad, and the cozy, wooden tabletop setting that made everything feel like home.)
More Than a Meal: Culture on a Plate
What really makes Umi Hachikyo special is not just the food—it’s how they connect diners with the culture of Hokkaido’s fishing communities. A portion of proceeds from each Tsukko Meshi is donated to support local fishermen and sustainable fishing efforts. So when you’re dining here, you’re part of something bigger—a culinary tradition tied deeply to the land and sea.
Other Menu Highlights (if you’re still hungry!)
Though we were nearly full after our main dishes, it’s worth noting that Umi Hachikyo offers a wide range of course menus and seasonal dishes that rotate with Hokkaido’s harvest.
Image: Marina Wee
Sashimi platters with locally caught fish
Grilled Hokke (another Hokkaido favorite)
Steamed Hokkaido potatoes with butter and squid guts
Hokkaido crab dishes, when in season
You can also opt for set courses that include 8–10 dishes, ideal if you’re coming in a group and want a bit of everything.
Image: Marina Wee
Booking, Hours, and Getting There
📍 Location:
Umi Hachikyo Main Branch
Miyako Building 1F, Minami 3 Nishi 3, Chuo-ku, Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japa
🕐 Opening Hours:
Mon–Sat: 6:00 PM – 11:00 PM
Sundays & Public Holidays: 5:00 PM – 10:00 PM
📞 Phone: Please refer to their website, as different outlets have different phone numbers.
🚇 Access: 1-minute walk from Susukino Station, Subway Namboku Line, 15-20 minutes walk from Odori Park.
🌐 Official Website (English)
Reservations are required as this place is wildly popular with both locals and tourists.
Final Verdict: Would We Go Again?
Image: Marina Wee
Absolutely.
Umi Hachikyo wasn’t just dinner—it was an experience, a story, and a sensory memory we’ll be talking about for years. From the cheers and laughter during the ikura pour to the humble but stunning presentation of grilled fish and tofu, it perfectly captured the essence of Japanese hospitality and culinary pride.
Whether you're a foodie chasing Hokkaido’s best seafood or just want a dinner you’ll never forget, Umi Hachikyo is a must-visit in Sapporo.
Have you been to Umi Hachikyo? Would you try the overflowing salmon roe bowl? Let us know in the comments! And don't forget to check out our video from the visit on Instagram @thetravel_playbook.